Looming over Philadelphia’s Fairmount neighborhood, Eastern State Penitentiary stands as a haunting reminder of America’s complex history with incarceration and criminal justice reform. With its imposing stone walls and Gothic architecture, this former prison has captured the imagination of visitors for decades. From its groundbreaking approach to rehabilitation to its current role as a thought-provoking museum, Eastern State Penitentiary offers a unique window into the evolution of the American penal system.
The Birth of a Revolutionary Concept
A New Approach to Punishment
In the early 19th century, a group of prominent Philadelphians, including Benjamin Franklin, began to question the effectiveness of traditional forms of punishment. They believed that isolation and reflection, rather than physical punishment, could lead to true penitence and rehabilitation. This revolutionary idea gave birth to the concept of the penitentiary.
The Pennsylvania System
The system implemented at Eastern State Penitentiary became known as the “Pennsylvania System” or “separate system.” It was based on the principle of solitary confinement, where prisoners would live and work alone in their cells, with minimal human contact. The goal was to provide an environment for introspection and spiritual reflection, free from the corrupting influence of other criminals.
Architectural Marvel
Design and Construction
Designed by John Haviland, a British-born architect, Eastern State Penitentiary was a marvel of its time. Construction began in 1822 and was completed in 1829, at a cost of $780,000 – an astronomical sum for the era. The prison was built on a radial plan, with seven cellblocks extending from a central rotunda like the spokes of a wheel.
Gothic Revival Style
The exterior of Eastern State Penitentiary was designed to inspire awe and fear. Its massive stone walls, guard towers, and Gothic details gave it the appearance of a medieval castle. This imposing facade was intended to deter crime by its very presence, while also reassuring the public of its security.
Innovative Features
Inside, the prison boasted several innovative features:
- Central heating system
- Flush toilets (before even the White House had them)
- Skylights in each cell, known as the “Eye of God”
- Individual exercise yards for each cell
These amenities, while basic by today’s standards, were revolutionary for their time and reflected the reformers’ belief in the importance of humane treatment.
Life Inside Eastern State Penitentiary
The Daily Routine
Life for inmates at Eastern State was strictly regimented. Prisoners spent nearly all their time in solitary confinement, leaving their cells only for brief periods of exercise in individual yards. Meals were delivered through a small opening in the cell door, minimizing contact with guards.
Work and Rehabilitation
As part of their rehabilitation, prisoners were required to work. They performed tasks such as shoemaking, weaving, and chair caning within the confines of their cells. The products of their labor were sold to help offset the costs of running the prison.
The Toll of Solitude
While the founders of Eastern State believed that solitude would lead to reflection and reform, the reality was often quite different. Many inmates suffered severe psychological effects from prolonged isolation. Reports of hallucinations, depression, and other mental health issues were common.
Notable Inmates
Throughout its history, Eastern State Penitentiary housed many infamous criminals. Some of the most notable include:
Al Capone
The notorious Chicago gangster spent eight months at Eastern State in 1929-1930. His cell was famously luxurious, featuring fine furnishings and a radio.
Willie Sutton
Known as “Slick Willie,” Sutton was a prolific bank robber who spent time at Eastern State in the 1930s. He famously escaped in 1945 through a tunnel dug by other inmates.
Pep “The Cat-Murdering Dog”
In a strange twist, a dog named Pep was allegedly sentenced to life at Eastern State by Pennsylvania Governor Gifford Pinchot in 1924 for killing the governor’s wife’s cat. While the story is likely apocryphal, it has become part of the prison’s folklore.
The Decline of the Pennsylvania System
Overcrowding and Changing Philosophies
As the prison population grew, the strict adherence to solitary confinement became increasingly difficult to maintain. By the late 19th century, Eastern State had begun to abandon the separate system in favor of a more traditional congregate system.
Riots and Escapes
The 20th century saw several notable incidents at Eastern State, including riots in 1933 and 1961, and a number of dramatic escape attempts. These events highlighted the growing challenges faced by the aging institution.
Closure
By the 1960s, Eastern State Penitentiary was outdated and in poor condition. The decision was made to close the facility, and in 1971, the last inmates were transferred to other prisons. The once-revolutionary penitentiary was abandoned, left to decay for over two decades.
Preservation and Rebirth
Saving a Landmark
In the 1980s, preservationists began to recognize the historical and architectural significance of Eastern State Penitentiary. A group of concerned citizens formed the Eastern State Penitentiary Task Force to advocate for the preservation of the site.
Stabilization and Restoration
In 1991, Eastern State Penitentiary opened for its first historic tours. Since then, ongoing preservation efforts have focused on stabilizing the structure and selectively restoring certain areas while maintaining the overall “preserved ruin” aesthetic.
A Museum and Educational Center
Today, Eastern State Penitentiary operates as a museum and educational center, offering visitors a chance to explore its haunting cellblocks and learn about the history of incarceration in America.
Exhibits and Programs
Eastern State Penitentiary offers a rich array of exhibits and programs designed to educate visitors about the prison’s history and provoke thought about criminal justice issues. Let’s explore these in more detail:
Audio Tour: “The Voices of Eastern State”
The main audio tour, titled “The Voices of Eastern State,” is a cornerstone of the visitor experience at Eastern State Penitentiary.
Narration by Steve Buscemi
Actor Steve Buscemi lends his distinctive voice to the tour, providing a compelling narrative that guides visitors through the prison’s history and architecture. Buscemi’s connection to Eastern State goes beyond narration; his father was a sanitation worker in New York City and often shared stories about working near the infamous Sing Sing prison, giving Buscemi a personal interest in the subject matter.
Content and Structure
The audio tour covers various aspects of the prison’s history:
- The philosophy behind the Pennsylvania System
- Daily life for inmates and staff
- Notable events and inmates
- The prison’s eventual decline and closure
Visitors can explore at their own pace, stopping at numbered locations throughout the prison to hear relevant audio segments.
Personal Stories
Interspersed throughout the main narrative are firsthand accounts from former inmates, guards, and others connected to Eastern State. These personal stories bring the prison’s history to life, offering intimate glimpses into the experiences of those who lived and worked within its walls.
Sound Design
The tour features carefully crafted sound design, including ambient noises and reenactments, which help to immerse visitors in the prison environment and evoke the atmosphere of different historical periods.
Al Capone’s Cell
The recreation of Al Capone’s cell is one of the most popular exhibits at Eastern State Penitentiary, offering a stark contrast to the austere conditions experienced by most inmates.
Historical Context
Al Capone spent about eight months at Eastern State in 1929-1930, following his arrest for carrying a concealed deadly weapon. Despite his notoriety, Capone was able to furnish his cell lavishly, highlighting the inequalities within the prison system.
Cell Recreation
The exhibit meticulously recreates Capone’s cell based on a newspaper description from 1929. Features include:
- Fine furniture, including a polished wood wardrobe and desk
- Plush oriental rugs covering the floor
- A cabinet radio, a luxury item at the time
- Paintings adorning the walls
Interpretive Displays
Accompanying the cell recreation are interpretive displays that provide context about Capone’s time at Eastern State and explore themes of privilege within the prison system. These displays encourage visitors to consider how fame and wealth can influence treatment within the justice system, both historically and in the present day.
The Big Graph
“The Big Graph” is a striking outdoor sculpture that serves as a powerful visual representation of incarceration rates in the United States.
Physical Description
The sculpture stands 16 feet tall and 33 feet wide, dominating the prison’s baseball diamond. It’s constructed of steel and aluminum, with three separate sections representing different data sets.
Data Visualization
The Big Graph presents three sets of statistics:
- The unprecedented growth in U.S. incarceration rates over the past 50 years
- Racial breakdown of the American prison population over time
- International incarceration rates, comparing the U.S. to other nations
Interactive Elements
Visitors can walk around and through the sculpture, gaining different perspectives on the data. Nearby signage provides detailed explanations of the statistics represented and their implications.
Impact and Discussion
The Big Graph serves as a focal point for discussions about mass incarceration in America. It prompts visitors to consider the societal factors that have led to such high incarceration rates and the potential consequences of this trend.
Art Installations
Eastern State Penitentiary regularly features temporary and permanent art installations that explore themes related to incarceration, justice, and human rights.
Variety of Media
Installations have included:
- Large-scale sculptures
- Audio and video pieces
- Interactive exhibits
- Murals and paintings
- Performance art
Themes Explored
Common themes in the art installations include:
- The psychological effects of incarceration
- The impact of imprisonment on families and communities
- Racial disparities in the justice system
- The concept of rehabilitation versus punishment
Notable Installations
Some memorable installations have included:
- “Ghost Cats” by Linda Brenner: Sculptures representing the stray cats that inhabited the abandoned prison
- “Sepulture” by Dayton Castleman: A 40-foot steel sculpture extending from a cell, representing the idea of escape
- “Portraits of Justice” by Mary DeWitt: Painted portraits and audio interviews with women serving life sentences
Artist-in-Residence Program
Eastern State also hosts an artist-in-residence program, allowing artists to create work specifically for the site. This program has resulted in unique pieces that respond directly to the prison’s history and architecture.
These exhibits and programs work together to create a multifaceted experience for visitors to Eastern State Penitentiary. By combining historical information, personal stories, data visualization, and artistic interpretation, the prison-turned-museum offers a complex and nuanced exploration of incarceration in America. Visitors are encouraged not just to learn about the past, but to engage critically with present-day issues in criminal justice, making Eastern State a unique and thought-provoking destination.
Ghost Stories and Paranormal Activity
A Haunted Reputation
With its Gothic architecture and dark history, it’s no surprise that Eastern State Penitentiary has gained a reputation as one of America’s most haunted places. Visitors and staff have reported numerous ghostly encounters over the years.
Ghost Tours
The prison capitalizes on its spooky reputation by offering special after-dark tours and events, particularly around Halloween. The annual “Terror Behind the Walls” haunted house attraction has become one of Philadelphia’s most popular Halloween events.
Eastern State Penitentiary in Popular Culture
Film and Television
The prison’s unique atmosphere has made it a popular location for filmmakers. It has appeared in numerous movies and TV shows, including:
- “12 Monkeys” (1995)
- “Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen” (2009)
- “Ghost Hunters” (TV series)
Literature and Art
Eastern State has also inspired writers and artists, appearing in novels, poems, and visual art. Its imposing architecture and complex history continue to captivate creative minds.
The Legacy of Eastern State Penitentiary
Influence on Prison Design
Despite its eventual abandonment of the separate system, Eastern State Penitentiary had a significant influence on prison design worldwide. Its radial plan was copied by hundreds of prisons across the globe.
Ongoing Debates in Criminal Justice
The history of Eastern State continues to inform contemporary discussions about criminal justice reform. The failure of the separate system raises important questions about the effectiveness of isolation as a means of rehabilitation.
A Mirror to Society
Today, Eastern State Penitentiary serves as a mirror, reflecting our society’s evolving attitudes towards crime, punishment, and rehabilitation. It challenges visitors to consider the human cost of incarceration and the complexities of achieving justice.
Visiting Eastern State Penitentiary
Planning Your Visit
Eastern State Penitentiary is open year-round for tours. Visitors can explore the cellblocks, exercise yards, and other areas of the prison at their own pace.
What to Expect
The site is largely unheated and un-air-conditioned, so visitors should dress appropriately for the weather. Some areas may be difficult to access for those with mobility issues.
Special Events
In addition to regular tours, Eastern State hosts a variety of special events throughout the year, including:
- Bastille Day celebrations
- Family weekend activities
- Artist installations and performances
- The “Terror Behind the Walls” Halloween attraction
The Future of Eastern State Penitentiary
Ongoing Preservation
Preserving a structure as large and complex as Eastern State Penitentiary is an ongoing challenge. The site continues to require significant resources for maintenance and restoration.
Expanding the Narrative
As our understanding of criminal justice evolves, so too does the narrative presented at Eastern State. The museum continues to develop new exhibits and programs that address contemporary issues in incarceration and social justice.
A Place for Dialogue
Eastern State Penitentiary aims to be more than just a historic site. It seeks to serve as a platform for dialogue about criminal justice reform, encouraging visitors to engage with these complex issues long after they leave the prison walls.
Conclusion: A Monument to Reform and Reflection
Eastern State Penitentiary stands as a powerful reminder of America’s ongoing struggle with crime and punishment. From its revolutionary beginnings to its current role as a museum and educational center, this imposing structure has continually challenged our notions of justice and rehabilitation.
As we grapple with questions of mass incarceration, recidivism, and the purpose of punishment in the 21st century, Eastern State Penitentiary offers valuable historical context. It challenges us to think critically about our approach to crime and rehabilitation, and to consider the kind of justice system we want for our society.
Whether you’re a history buff, a true crime enthusiast, or simply a curious visitor, Eastern State Penitentiary offers a unique and thought-provoking experience. Its imposing walls and haunting cellblocks tell a story that is at once deeply American and universally human – a story of crime and punishment, of reform and reflection, of the enduring quest for justice in an imperfect world.
As you leave the shadow of its Gothic towers, you may find yourself pondering questions that have no easy answers. And perhaps that, more than anything, is the true legacy of Eastern State Penitentiary – a place that continues to challenge and inspire, long after the last prisoner has gone.
